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Built a matching cab for the JCM800. Padauk, walnut corners and maple piping. Has black backs from a JMP50.

Russ

Very nice, jealous.

Administrator: Please ban this person, as this makes my work look shabby.

John

Great gravvy, that's ri-dic. Also jealous.

Those walnut corners, is there anything holding them in place besides glue? I'm a rank amateur at cabinet work. I'd be afraid to run the router over them with only glue. Is that an unfounded concern?

The corners really set off the cab from being run of the mill. They look great along with the rest. Thank (again) for sharing.

Just glue on three sides. The body is two pieces of edge glued padauk - no fancy joint or biscuits. Modern glues have come a long way - the Titebond series yields a joint stronger than the wood around it.

One note on routers with figured wood - not a huge fan as tear out seems to follow me around and when they screw up [bit not tightened enough and dives into the wood or tear out] it is catastrophic.

One thing I noticed when I shifted to a block plane for small rounds is that the grain can 'run' differently on the same piece of wood. When using a plane you try both directions to find which way the grain 'lays down' and thus cuts smoothly. The other way you are ripping the grain up instead of shaving it down. I've noticed on may pieces when planing that I have to work from both sides to the middle to avoid ripping up. Many of the figured woods I have used - maple, walnut, padauk, mahogany, zebra & leopard all exhibit this to small degree. With a router you won't know until you've ripped it up.

I have transitioned to sanding all of the rounds up to the 1" on this cab. Usually takes 2-3 minutes on the end grain and somewhat less the side grain. I use 80 grit with a good orbital sander and leave the corners a bit proud and finish those by hand.

As my professional cabinet building buddies remind me - 'The art of wood working is not build perfection but artful fixes of the screw ups.'

Russ

Wow.
Just wow.

Hey John! Any news on that gorgeous slab of walnut for a 4x12 cab?

I believe you should be banned for the exquisite wood!

Russ

Teleguy61 wrote:Wow. Just wow.

Beautifull work, the slant one is very nice too.

Nice the. Corners is very cool

Don't know how I missed this.

Beautiful wood!

Is it real heavy?

Thank you for the kind comments! As soon as I figure out to build 0.100" maple strip wood for the accent piping on the JMP cabs I'll have the companion JMP head in padauk as well. HS Marching band season has started - I'm one of the 20 equipment dads and Mr. general fixit - building stuff for fun slows down some.

Tom - I haven't put it on a scale yet but I suspect high 50's. The JMP Combo was about 70lb.

Russ

Geeze wrote:... As soon as I figure out to build 0.100" maple strip wood for the accent piping

I'm clearly not in your league. I'm thinking this. Put the router in a sled with a bottom cleaning bit. Use that to plane the maple thin. clamp the piece to the table. It is gonna be difficult to get to 0.10" without it doing something you don't want it to do. With the router solution, you aren't going to the edge, where you maintain original thickness. Once you have the inside thin enough, you can carefully carve off the edges with something sharp, like a chisel. 0.10"...you can probably cut that with a decent scissors!

Tom - it weighs 59lb on a cheap scale.

Hi Phil, Thank you very much for that suggestion as the light bulb went on! I can cut a groove in the .750" maple .100" deep leaving a .100" wide strip and run a razor blade down the back to slice it off.

Which brings me back to the most perilous part of the thin piping journey - cutting the .100" grooves in the head shell with the table saw.

I'll post pics of the build in another post.

Russ

Did you apply a finish to the wood?