New Rocket STARTS UP!!!

[telentubes]

Finally found the time to finish wiring this Rocket Reverb.

I powered up with a light bulb limiter and got a low glow. I flipped the Standby switch and the glow stayed the same (no flash and die down).

The PT seems to be fine with the exception of the gray wire to pin 8 of the rectifier socket. There's voltage to pin 2, but NOT pin 8. The caps aren't charging and there is no voltage to the other tubes except for the filaments.

I think I've wired this correctly but maybe someone could have a look.

Could I have damaged the PT when I plugged it in to do "the headphone trick" and fried one of the secondaries?

Here are some pics.

T-N-T

[telentubes]

more pics

[telentubes]

last ones

[KellyBass]

Have you measured the gray wires with them unhooked from the socket?

[telentubes]

I'll go do that now. Thanks

[M Fowler]

I'm not seeing anything sticking out at this point and it could be the GZ34/5AR4 is bad.


Mark

[telentubes]

I'm following the start up procedure which says to measure voltages BEFORE putting in any tubes.
I get my 5 volts across the two gray wires, but not if I go from each gray to ground (Is that how those are measured??? All the others go from wire to ground).

Anyhow... Do I simply need to put in the GZ34 to charge the rest of the circuit?
And leave the other tubes out for now.

[M Fowler]

That start up procedure is the Express which is solid state rectified.

Yes installing the rectifier tube supplies the DC voltage to the amp.

You can leave the standby off to test power supply. But to test the dropping rail it will need to on.

I always hook up a speaker or dummy load no matter if I have preamp and power tubes in or not.

The GZ34 rectifies the power transformers secondary voltage and your using the green/yellow wires which is 250-0-250.

[M Fowler]

This amp will fire-up no problems based on your quality work.

When testing the reverb and you get reverb pan hum then you will need to run shielded wire, grounding the shield at one end.

[telentubes]

Oh Yeah... the solid state rectifier.
I'll go try it again with the tube in.
Also Mark, I read a post a while ago where you mentioned shielded wire for the reverb, so I already did that. Thanks for that tip.

[telentubes]

Somethings screwy here.

I only have the rectifier tube installed.
When the amp is switched off of "standby" into the "play" mode...

the GZ34 has 350V on pins 2 and 8, and
254VAC on pins 4 and 6

There are 350VDC on pins 1 and 6 of V1 through V4, pin 2 of V2, pins 7 and 9 of all 4 EL84s, as well as B+ 1 through 5.

I should check all the resistors and wiring AGAIN? Any ideas of a good place to start?

[KellyBass]

350vdc everywhere!?

What's the value on that F&T reservoir cap? 80uf? I'm not used to seeing the bleeder resistors wired this way. The two yellow wires coming off of each of the bleeders I can see are going to ground...The single yellow wire that shares the same eyelet as your HT...is it going to the neg side of your reservoir cap?

[M Fowler]

I was assuming that the bleeder resistors had a ground wire underneath the board.

B2 the 47uf cap should have 18k dropping resistors or two 9k1 resistors in series going to the B3 22uf then 9k1 to B4 and 9k1 to B5.

Your voltage from the PT to the rectifier should be the 254vac and rectified to 350vdc with a wire from pin 8 to first filter cap either 80uf or a pair of 47uf caps B1.

Make sure the caps are grounded and recheck your work.

[marcoloco961]

Somethings screwy here.

I only have the rectifier tube installed.
When the amp is switched off of "standby" into the "play" mode...

the GZ34 has 350V on pins 2 and 8, and
254VAC on pins 4 and 6

There are 350VDC on pins 1 and 6 of V1 through V4, pin 2 of V2, pins 7 and 9 of all 4 EL84s, as well as B+ 1 through 5.

I should check all the resistors and wiring AGAIN? Any ideas of a good place to start?

4.Switch your DMM to ACV to check the supply voltage from the wall at the ON switch and
then the across PT secondaries where they attach to the PS board by the diodes.Switch
to DCV and check for high voltage DC on the filter caps and B+1 through B+5.At this
point,the B+voltages on the caps will all be similar as there are no tubes installed,
therefore no load or current flow.

Step 4. of the build guide discusses this. See above.
No tubes no current flow, similar voltages. You should be ready to go to the next step. Are you using a bulb limiter?

[M Fowler]

Your running 250-0-250 PT secondary voltage so on pins 4 & 6 you have 254VAC to each pin or 508vac with your meter across these two.

After rectification you noted the GZ34 has 350V on pins 2 and 8.

Should be good to go. Put in your startup tubes use the bulb limiter or variac.