Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
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Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Another question. I was about to start the chassis and for some reason I decided the measure the Alpha pots, which were already installed. Glad I did because one of the 1Meg pots only measured 850K. It happens to be in the bass position. Will it make much of a difference?
Should I leave it, move it to another position or just get a new one?
Should I leave it, move it to another position or just get a new one?
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Just leave it. It is fine for that position.
*ducks for cover*
*ducks for cover*
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Thanks. Another question. I was comparing the layout from the build guide to a photo of Francesca and noticed the heaters going from V1 to V2 are switched. The Francesca photo has the wires from V1 going to different pins on V2.
Does this make a difference? I'm not too familiar with the tube components.
Thanks again!
Does this make a difference? I'm not too familiar with the tube components.
Thanks again!
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Yeah, that's where Ken (mistakenly?) wired them out of phase. You should probably wire them in phase.
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
The bright switch is wired different too. Fransesca has the middle lug of the switch going to the 3rd lug of the volume pot and the center lug of the volume to the silver micas. The build guide has it reversed.
Should I just go by the build guide and use the Fransesca photos for wire placement?
Should I just go by the build guide and use the Fransesca photos for wire placement?
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
There's a thread about that somewhere. I was in it the other day. This is the better way.
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Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Making some progress. I tried to copy the look of the way he wired the heaters even though I prefer it a little neater. It's difficult to twist this wire. Probably should have gone solid core for the heaters. Slippery stuff.
Can anyone point me to photos the wiring under the boards. I just want to see how the transformer wiring looks
[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040143_zps9288a28d.jpg[/img]
[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040144_zpsbdc07ca2.jpg[/img]
[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040145_zps65b61faf.jpg[/img]
Can anyone point me to photos the wiring under the boards. I just want to see how the transformer wiring looks
[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040143_zps9288a28d.jpg[/img]
[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040144_zpsbdc07ca2.jpg[/img]
[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040145_zps65b61faf.jpg[/img]
- LeftyStrat
- Posts: 3117
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Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
LOL. To quote Ken, "use your ears."jelle wrote:Just leave it. It is fine for that position.
*ducks for cover*
If it sounds good to you, fuck everyone on TAG.
It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Page 37 of build guide show wires under bias board. Wiring of PT and OT dependents on your transformers such as brand and wires on both ends or only one end. It takes planning to get the bias board, holes/mounting coordinated with the PT/OT, and mounting bolts.
Did you test tone board, cap stack and bias board? The tone board may need to go over to the left more.
Also use short bolts and mount the PT/OT bolts from inside of chassis with nut on top of chassis for clearance.
Mark
Did you test tone board, cap stack and bias board? The tone board may need to go over to the left more.
Also use short bolts and mount the PT/OT bolts from inside of chassis with nut on top of chassis for clearance.
Mark
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Great! I read the guide a couple months ago and forgot that. I'm using the Pacific transformers and they are already mounted. I fit the boards in and tested the space for the filter caps. I've been waiting too long for the standoffs from turretboards.com so I'm making my own using those bolts you see and 3/8" nylon spacers. Between those and the nuts it should be about 1/2" off the chassis. I will clip off excess bolts once the boards are mounted. Don't feel like removing them at this point, expecially since two of them are under the transformers.M Fowler wrote:Page 37 of build guide show wires under bias board. Wiring of PT and OT dependents on your transformers such as brand and wires on both ends or only one end. It takes planning to get the bias board, holes/mounting coordinated with the PT/OT, and mounting bolts.
Did you test tone board, cap stack and bias board? The tone board may need to go over to the left more.
Also use short bolts and mount the PT/OT bolts from inside of chassis with nut on top of chassis for clearance.
Mark
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Yeah that will work fine and I did see all that after I posted.
I had to trim the bias board around my switches on one build.
I think the most important thing in that right side of the amp is keeping the wire away from the large 1k/25w resistor, otherwise, we all have to resort to problem solving on individual basis in that right side corner. There is a lot going on with that side of the chassis as you know. Another reason why I like the PCB version of the Express.
Mark
I had to trim the bias board around my switches on one build.
I think the most important thing in that right side of the amp is keeping the wire away from the large 1k/25w resistor, otherwise, we all have to resort to problem solving on individual basis in that right side corner. There is a lot going on with that side of the chassis as you know. Another reason why I like the PCB version of the Express.
Mark
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
I'm up to the PT now and I'm stumpted. The PT in the layout shows 8 wires and my Pacific transformer has 10.
The only ones that I am sure about at this point are the 2 black that go to the switch. Since color varies I am unsure of the rest.
1. The two wires that go to the bias board diodes (I'm thinking the yellows)
2. The two wires that go to pins 2 and 7 of V5
3. The wires that go to the ground lug
4. The remaining two wires that are not in the layout (snip & cap?)
I don't want to guess to the reprucussions if I am wrong.
The only ones that I am sure about at this point are the 2 black that go to the switch. Since color varies I am unsure of the rest.
1. The two wires that go to the bias board diodes (I'm thinking the yellows)
2. The two wires that go to pins 2 and 7 of V5
3. The wires that go to the ground lug
4. The remaining two wires that are not in the layout (snip & cap?)
I don't want to guess to the reprucussions if I am wrong.
- martin manning
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Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
This might help...
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Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
I have that already and unfortunately it doesn't. My knowledge isn't to the point where I would know where they go by the voltages. I guess if I knew how to read schematics it would be different, but at this point in time I cannot. Thanks though.
- martin manning
- Posts: 14308
- Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2008 12:43 am
- Location: 39°06' N 84°30' W
Re: Starting my Wreck board and I have a question
Oh jeez... Well, procede at your own risk!lgehrig4 wrote:I have that already and unfortunately it doesn't. My knowledge isn't to the point where I would know where they go by the voltages. I guess if I knew how to read schematics it would be different, but at this point in time I cannot. Thanks though.
1. Yellowlgehrig4 wrote: 1. The two wires that go to the bias board diodes (I'm thinking the yellows)
2. The two wires that go to pins 2 and 7 of V5
3. The wires that go to the ground lug
4. The remaining two wires that are not in the layout (snip & cap?)
2. Brown
3. Yellow/Red, White/Brown
4. Yellow/Green Clip the stripped part off, fold the end over 1/2" or so, cover with heat-shrink tube, and coil them up. Secure with a zip tie.