Funkalicousgroove wrote:I agree on the coax, try belden 8451, it's a foil shield type wire and works very well, grounding both ends is probably the root of your hum. there is a very low occurrence of "Microphonic hook-up wire" it is most probably the tube it's connected to. If you like I can send you a few feet of this wire, I buy it by the roll. You really should consider the grounding scheme I told you about a few posts ago in leiu of the single point star ground.
FWIW, I used the Belden foil shielded cable in my first D-Clone amp and too be honest it sucked up the amps tone. The cable has too high a capacitance. Take a look at this page with the measured results of shielded versus the belden cable.
Funkalicous, you say," I copied the layout right down to the lead dress in my D-clone ...". What layout and lead dress are you referring to? I want to build a D clone next. Thanks!
Funkalicousgroove wrote:I've never had a problem with it, and both Andy Fuchs and David Allen use it, and until the more recent ones,
According to Andy they have switched to a low cap digital coax on their new amps. If you use enough of the stuff it does hurt the response, at least it did in my case. And I think my layout isn't too far from the real thing. And the way the amp is today it will peel paint at 50 feet with a tele in the brigde position.
Gary
Located in the St Croix River Valley- Afton, MN
About 5 miles south of I-94
aka K0GWA, K0 Glas Werks Amplification www.glaswerks.com
I think it makes sense what Gary is saying since a lot of times gtr. amps have high impedances, relatively high impedance output gain stages, high value pots (500k-1Meg). I think it's because of the high impedances that small differences like use of shielded wiring can make a difference (as with the input--where many players experiment w/lower capacitance cable). It seems wiring differently can work both ways though, here apparently it worked well to bring out nice highs, but in another situation it could be backwards, bringing out harsh highs under greater amounts of distortion, so I think it depends on the amp design which way is better plus obviously the builder/player's tastes (and hearing? or lack of? due to damage or aging), and probably playing style as well. But that's what is good about the DIY thing--you can tailor these responses yourself to your satisfaction so you aren't stuck with something. And I would guess that is the sort of thing Dumble and others do when customizing an amp for a player and gtr(s) to be used w/the amp (so maybe some builders take the gtr./s to be used, observe the player's style firsthand and try to make necessary compensations in the amp).
Funkalicousgroove wrote:Do you know what the coax brand/type is? I'd like to try it, I have no Vested interest in the 8451 other than It's done me right on alot of amps and I still have 50 ft of it. I bought some NOS us military solid conductor teflon insulated coax a while back but It was around for quite a while before I got it and the internal insulation seems to have turned brittle.
Sorry it took so long to reply, a lightening strike in my neighborhood took our internet out. But here goes....
According to a very good source the cable that is now being used is made by Gepco. They are 110ohm and here are the part numbers. 21pf / ft btw and is dual conductor (they also have a single conductor.
