selloutrr wrote:
The exotic woods used 12 - 14 coats of tungoil dried and wet sanded between coats. The Cherry cabs some used simi gloss poly, others used tungoil, a few may have ever used gun oil. Again 12-14 coats dried and wet sanding between each coat. poly was applied with a sprayer.
Why so many coats? Are you going for a high gloss finish? You should look into padding lacquer otherwise known as french polishing and do away with all that sanding. Your labor costs are too high. I even pad with shellac. It dries so fast you wind up with 10 to 20 thin coats in a couple of hours tops and each coat burns into the one beneath it. If you master it there won't be anything left to do when your done.
Well i was gonna start building some head cabs tonite.I got about as far as selecting some boards.
My planer is having some issues now. I may take some boards to my buddies shop and knock them down.Else i'll have to wait till i can get my planer fixed.
Guess its better to break down now than when i got people waiting for cabinets for their house.
selloutrr wrote:
The exotic woods used 12 - 14 coats of tungoil dried and wet sanded between coats. The Cherry cabs some used simi gloss poly, others used tungoil, a few may have ever used gun oil. Again 12-14 coats dried and wet sanding between each coat. poly was applied with a sprayer.
Why so many coats? Are you going for a high gloss finish? You should look into padding lacquer otherwise known as french polishing and do away with all that sanding. Your labor costs are too high. I even pad with shellac. It dries so fast you wind up with 10 to 20 thin coats in a couple of hours tops and each coat burns into the one beneath it. If you master it there won't be anything left to do when your done.
I wouldn't recomend straight tungoil for a final finish.Danish oil will shine up much better and is more durable.
I've done a bit of french polishing in furniture restoreration I also like it for the Maple necks I build.Its very forgiving and easy to touch up.
The easiest way to get a mirror finish is buy buffing lacquer.Shouldn't say easiest but fastest
I agree it's cheaper to a different finish. However if you are going for spot on authentic it won't be correct.
If you want a nice cheap cabinet for a clone make a mitered corner and spray on a couple coats of finish.
I have one of richies cabs it's a great cabinet my only complaint if how the front piece is attached. It looks good from the front but you can see the screws from the back. The reason I point this out cutting the inset groove takes time time takes money.
I'd be interested in a raw unfinished authentic no corners cut cabinet for $150.
I don't know I have been reading about Trainwreck amps since 2007 and came to the conclusion a long time ago that there is no rules for what is a correct Trainwreck. Whether in cabinet design because there are a few different cabinet styles shown in pictures or the transformers used are all over the place too many for me to keep track of and each amp was tuned to the owner.