EQ on the Airbrake

[LedZepp007]

Hi,

I'm going to build an Airbrake this weekend. I have all of the parts and everything's ready to go.

The chassis I got (Hammond sloped console-like) is probably more spacious than necessary. As such, I'm wondering if it might be even more fun to modify the design a bit and add some EQ to it, particularly if the Airbrake is known to get fizzy and harsh at lower volumes (as some have reported).

Is adding EQ:

1) A stupid idea
2) Impractical

...or 3) Fun/funny

Thanks!

[kwijabo]

i don't really use the airbrake below 2 or 3 clicks so i've never thought long enough about it. but there are a couple weber schematics out there for weber attentuators. they use some simple EQ.

http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2287

also it doesn't take up a lot a space but maybe you consider adding a line out?

[LedZepp007]

Anybody have any suggestions on how to do it? Simple tone stack before the output?

[LedZepp007]

OK. Built it. Was sure I'd have to mend something after completion, but to my pleasant surprise, it worked immediately! Although the circuit is very simple (even for me), some of the wiring on the switch was tedious (with tiny length of wire) and tested my soldering "skill." The difference in volume between each of the non-bedroom levels was subtle but noticeable and the rheostat really knocked a ton of volume off. Truthfully, it sounded decent to me all the way to the lowest setting.

And, it worked well. I was able to dime the twin inside my apartment. Crazy. Also, the Twin sounded better cranked than expected, even though it totally fell apart beyond about 9.5 on the MV. I will try and upload a gut shot later. There is still plenty of room inside the chassis for more stuff.

It easily is the best sounding attenuator I've ever used.

Also, bought a super cheap HF drill press and it is mind blowingly better than trying to hand drill. I was able to drill my AB chassis in less than 10 minutes, or approximately 10 times faster than it would've taken with the hand drill. Also, less noisy and messy than expected. I certainly think I'd have no problem drilling amp chassis.

[matt h]

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[hans-jörg]

@LedZepp007:

what size is your attenuator?
I mean 50W , 100W or 150W?
150W is the size for a Twin I guess. With 100W you should not turn your Amp higher than 2/3 volume. Otherwise you are cooking your Att.
To pull 2 tubes is an other option.

I have a 100 Watt attenuator and play my Dumble clone over it but only to Master 6-7.
Depends also how dirty you go Ok its not fair, because the Dumble has a 50/100W switch.

Hans-Jörg

PS: I love Attenuator, my LarMar Masters (if built in) are always wide open if I play through an Att.

[LedZepp007]

Hi guys,

Thanks. Yeah, I'm talking about my recently acquired '73 Twin Reverb. 100 watts. My understanding is that the Airbrake should be able to handle 100 watts just fine. I think I read something that KF had written (which is somewhere around here) that the AB can handle 100+ watts. I could be wrong. I can tell you that the '73 TR is louder than god without the attenuator.

[matt h]

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[LedZepp007]

And here are some photos. Please judge lightly. I am not good at this stuff yet.

[matt h]

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